Herd Management

OUR HERD
This is a simple rundown of our herd management procedures, and will continue to be refined and fleshed out over time. If you have any questions, we would be happy to try and answer them as best we can, but please know we cannot replace experienced veterinary advice.

Our herd is vaccinated annually with CD/T, and clean tested for CAE, CL and Johne's. We do not yet take our animals to show, so we currently only test for biosecurity when new animals are brought to the farm before releasing from quarantine. We do not worm our goats on a schedule. Instead, we check FAMACHA and take fecal samples to help determine when a goat needs deworming and which specific dewormers to use. This helps prevent parasites from developing resistances to dewormers over time. For external parasites, we’ve had good results using UltraBoss Pour-On, which can be purchased at your local feed store.

Hoof health is very important when it comes to goats. We trim hooves once every 1-2 months, depending on the goat. Some goats have hooves that benefit from monthly trims, and some will grind their hooves on rocks and stones and do most of the job for you. It’s always a good idea to check them every few weeks, though, to make sure they aren’t developing issues. The more often you trim their hooves, the easier it will be, and the more likely you will be to catch issues early before they grow into big problems.


GOAT KIDS
Kids who are sold from our farm will be disbudded and up to date with their CD/T vaccinations and boosters. We give CD/T shots at 8 and 12 weeks, and then annually from that point forward. Wethers will be castrated (typically via Burdizzo). We also administer coccidia prevention (Toltrazuril at 3, 6, & 9 weeks), and deworm as needed. We do not wean kids to sell until they reach at least 20lbs to help ensure they will thrive in their new environment.

Our kids are typically dam-raised, but they tend to be very friendly due to daily handling and socialization, and are quite familiar with young children. We do our best to make them feel safe and secure around us humans, but some goats are just more naturally curious or cautious than others.


FOOD AND SUPPLEMENTS
All new food should be introduced slowly to help your goat’s rumen adjust and prevent bloat. If in doubt, administer probiotics and offer free-choice baking soda.

Hay: We feed primarily second-cut Orchard grass or Timothy hay daily to provide long-stem roughage for our entire herd. The amount we feed varies by season, as there’s usually more to forage in the pasture in the spring and summer months. Goats are very picky about dirty food and water, so we feed our hay up off the ground in hay feeders. Hay that is stepped on or soiled will become part of their bedding.
Alfalfa: We feed alfalfa pellets or bales of alfalfa to our pregnant and lactating does. We do not feel bucks or wethers alfalfa to prevent the development of urinary calculi.
Grain: We only feed grain to lactating does on the milk stand. We currently purchase our grain from Union Mills, and add a bit of powdered yeast, black oil sunflower seeds and vitamin E.
Water: Goats need clean, fresh water every day, and we often add a splash of apple cider vinegar to each bucket as well. We keep our buckets low enough for our goats to comfortably reach, but high enough that they can’t turn around and inadvertently drop fecal matter into it.
Minerals: Loose minerals are a must. We prefer Sweetlix Meat Maker due to the higher copper content, but it can sometimes be difficult to find. Payback Goat Mineral Plus, Manna Pro Goat Mineral or Purina Goat Mineral are also decent options.
Sodium Bicarbonate: We offer loose baking soda free-choice. This can help prevent bloat and settle an upset stomach.
Iodized Salt: We choose loose minerals with less salt intentionally because once a goat has had its fill of salt, it won’t continue to nibble the minerals it needs. Instead, we offer our salt free choice in a separate container so they can better control the amount they need.
Copper Bolus: We bolus our goats as needed if they are showing signs of copper deficiency, such as “fish tail” (a tail that’s separated in the middle due to balding and forms a V), a rough looking coat, a dark or black coat that’s turned reddish at the tips, bald patches on the face, etc. Keep in mind that a goat’s coat is naturally more fluffy in the winter when they grow in their undercoat.
Vitamin B Complex: Injectable or paste - We use this for any goat who is stressed, feeling off, or showing signs of anemia.
Vitamin A&D: We administer this to all kids born on the farm, and supplement to help with bone growth and development.
Selenium: The area we live is deficient for selenium, so we supplement with BoSe (vet prescription needed) or a Selenium/Vitamin E oral gel at least once per year or more if needed.
Replamin Gel Plus: We keep this on hand and give it as a boost of vitamins now and then to help with goats that look a little rough in the coat.
Probiotics: We keep both ProBios paste and a probiotic powder for top dressing in a refrigerator in our barn, and we administer whenever there is a change in the diet, a change in stool texture, or stress.
Nutridrench: This is a solution full of vitamins and minerals that can provide quick energy for weak animals.
Electrolytes: Add to water in directed amounts to help in times of stress.


BRINGING HOME YOUR NEW GOATS
There is always a certain amount of distress that comes from moving goats from one environment to another. To help ease the transition, we find it best to start by quarantining the animal (with another goat buddy) in a stall or pen while it’s still getting familiar with its new surroundings. This is a key time for creating a bond with your new goats by spending extra time with them and providing food and friendly touch. It also helps to give them a goat-specific probiotic to help keep their rumen in good health when they might not be eating regularly. We like ProBios paste or a probiotic powder like this one for topdressing their feed.

Keeping your goats quarantined for the first couple weeks can help keep any diseases or parasites from spreading to or from other animals in your herd. It also ensures you can keep a close eye out for any signs of illness or changes in behavior, such as diarrhea, abnormal breathing, body temperature, etc. This is also a great time to have your vet come out for a wellness check.

OTHER USEFUL SUPPLIES TO KEEP ON HAND

  • Hoof Trimmers

  • Hoof Pick with brush (to remove dirt and debris from hoof before trimming)

  • Blood Stop Powder (in case you accidentally trim the quick)

  • Digital Thermometer

  • Syringes and Needles (we use 20g and 22g most often)

  • An OTC antibiotic

  • Alcohol Prep Pads

  • Vaseline

  • Gloves

  • A drench syringe with a dose nut

  • Ammonium Chloride (top dress the food of bucks or wethers with this to reduce urinary stones)

  • A stanchion or stand with a head stall (makes hoof trims and administering medications much easier)

  • Polychain collars like these (we snip one of the chains to make them breakaway collars in case the goat gets stuck)

RESOURCES